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If your iMac starts with a screen similar to this:

image

don’t worry! There is a solution. Apple admit that they had bad hardware in a certain line of 2011 models. Apple offered to replace the videocard for free. But that offer has expired. I was not even aware it existed.

Never mind, the Apple store says that replacing the videocard will be between 600 and 700 euro.

That’s an expensive solution, so here is a cheaper one:

Bake your video card in the oven

I found this YouTube video about opening the iMac and put the card in the oven.

https://youtu.be/9vPM41ZmLoshttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41wB-fA7TbL._SY355_.jpg

Here are the ingredients for the recipe:

  • Torx T10 (almost all screws are t10)
  • Torx T9 (2 screws holding the video card to the cooling system)
  • Cooling paste
  • regular Phillips screwdriver
  • 2 suction cups
  • a bit of aluminum foil (to make 4 aluminum balls to stabilize the card in the oven on the plate)
  • conventional oven (with bottom and top radiation and a plate)

I also used some alcohol, tissues and q-tips/ cotton bud to remove the old cooling paste

Start by removing the ram modules from the bottom of the iMac.

Follow the steps in the video to remove the glass with the suction cups and remove 4 screws on each side of the panel to tilt the panel and disconnect all 4 connectors. Remove the panel and disassemble the main board/ logic board. The required screws cannot be found in the video. But you can find then in this video:

https://youtu.be/6B4iCYSWlWM?t=4m55s

The link starts the video at 4 minutes and 55 seconds. Which explains the screws you need to remove for the main board. afterwards you need to remove all connectors on the front. Tilt the board and remove the connectors on the back.

Follow that video to the end and then continue with the previous one to remove the cooling from the videocard.

clean the videocard and put it on 4 aluminum balls on a plate and put it in a pre-heated oven for 8 minutes on 200 degrees Celsius.

image

put new thermal/cooling paste on the chips and re-assemble everything. Do not forget the ram modules.

Here are some pictures from my baking experience:

IMG-20171108-WA0001IMG-20171108-WA0002WP_20171108_09_32_11_ProWP_20171108_09_32_19_ProWP_20171108_09_42_30_ProWP_20171108_09_51_20_ProWP_20171108_09_51_25_ProWP_20171108_10_23_18_ProWP_20171108_10_33_18_RichWP_20171108_10_37_19_RichWP_20171108_10_48_19_RichWP_20171108_11_39_23_RichWP_20171108_11_41_24_Rich

Good luck!

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I thought that USB to Ethernet adapters where a universal thing and I was wrong. It took me a 517MB download to get to a 503kb .exe containing the drivers.

I downloaded the Boot Camp Support Software 5.1.5769 from https://support.apple.com/kb/DL1837?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US

If you extract the zip and go to the folder “BootCamp\Drivers\Asix” you will find the AsixSetup64.exe which is just 503kb.

 

Alternative: download the 503kb file from mega.

 

snip_20161109112728

If it succeeds, it will show something similar to the picture below in the device manager

snip_20161109115008

 

Good luck!

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Well the title is clear right? I ran the Apple Hardware Test (AHT) because our model was from 2012.

  • Switched off the macbook
  • power on macbook
  • press and hold ‘D’

I ran the extended and more advance test which takes a bit longer. But it gave me the message:

4mot/4/40000002: exhaust-0

it said that the fan was broken. It was exactly what I expected due to the noise of the fan.

Our model was an A1466 and the fan replacement would cost me 145 euro at an Apple care center, so I bought the part online for 26 euro.

Here is the step by step ifixit guide. Please note that you need a P5 pentalobe screwdriver which is Apple specific. I bought it online for 5 euro.

I have spend 38 euro inc shippingcosts. You can get the screwdriver really cheap from aliexpress, but the shipping takes a long time and I cannot live that long without my macbook. Same for the fan it seems. You can get both for 9 dollar without shipping costs but it will take a while to arrive.

 

WP_20151231_17_23_03_Pro_LI

On the left is the new one, right side is the old one.

The hardest part was opening the zif connector to reattach the data kabel for the new fan.

 

WP_20151231_17_35_05_Pro_LI

WP_20151231_17_35_05_Pro_LI

The zif connector is so small that it is hard to open.

Running the hardware diagnostics tool can confirm that replacing the fan is a succes. You will not get the 4mot/4/40000002 exhaust error again.

Good luck with the fan replacement!

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Well it all started with having the router dropping my connection a lot. it happens almost every 5 minutes. So I started with some research to verify that it really dropped my connection. I did a ping to the router to see if it kept responding:

ping 192.168.1.1 –t

After ten pings, I noticed there where "request timeouts"

So the conclusion was that the router needed new firmware. There were no newer versions available.

As firmware alternatives, I’ve searched for


After creating a list with alternative firmware, I started to look which support the Linksys WRT320N.

The only suitable firmware was DD-WRT according to the supported router database.

[more] Next thing was comparing the different versions of DD-WRT.

I had six choices:

  1. Linksys special for TFTP
  2. Mega generic
  3. Mini generic
  4. Standard USB FTP generic
  5. VPN generic
  6. VOIP generic


Since I do not use VPN or VOIP on my router and it has no USB and since I was planning to upgrade it through the web interface instead of TFTP. it only left me with the mini generic or mega generic. Mega almost has twice the size of mini, so I’d take a look at http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/What_is_DD-WRT%3F

The extras that mega offered where not needed, so I went for the smaller Mini generic.

After downloading the firmware I had to search for an UTP cable so I can connect my laptop directly to the router.

After my 30/30/30 reset, I could not ping 192.168.1.1 anymore, so I thought I’d bricked my router.

Apparently I had to disconnect everything from the router and only have one UTP in it from my laptop and on my laptop I had to disable all network interfaces except the LAN of course.

My router was available again and all there was left for me to do is to upload the DD-WRT firmware in the web interface and do a 30/30/30 reset again afterwards.

so remember, when you want to upgrade the firmware. disconnect ALL UTP cables except the one that connects your system to the router and disable ALL network interfaces except LAN. also bridged stuff.

 

good luck upgrading!

 

p.s. below isn’t my router, just to show you the nice interface and details

dd-wrt

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